Uma Labattut specialises in hand embroidery and slow fashion. She’s lived between Berlin, Biarritz, Istanbul and has been travelling for three years. She’s currently in Lisbon.

How did you get into embroidery?

I started embroidering full-time three years ago. I had just left my job in fashion marketing and I didn’t want another office job because I had trouble dealing with the 9 to 5 lifestyle. I had a lot of free time, so I just started drawing and embroidering more and more. In fact, I have always been a maker; even when I had office jobs, I finished many sewing projects – usually they became gifts for friends. I learned sewing from my mother. I grew up spending a lot of time watching her magically sewing something spectacular. She was a talented tailor, designer, crafter and a full time mum working independently at home. I was fascinated and inspired by her creativity and passion for zero waste. Then for the embroidery techniques, I trained myself through books, the Internet and workshops! 

Do you have a background in design?

Nope, I completed totally different studies: Bachelors in Economics and International Trade; Masters degree in Social Sciences. I always knew that I was not made for any of these disciplines, but it took long time to find the courage to start creating, making a living from a handmade little business. I met my inner creative self and true happiness following the freedom and space it gives.

What are some of your favourite stitches?

Chain stitch for outlines; satin stitch for filling. I am also very fond of French knots as they create very exciting textures! 

Are there any stitches you’re keen on learning?

As my art practice develops, I’d love to make bigger collage or patchwork using outline stitches to attach upcycled fabrics in my projects, like in the ‘Mushroom Family’. For this, I need to get better at outline stitches. By using the textile collage method, I aim to give a new life to more leftover fabrics that are about to become waste.  I find it so nostalgic to bring together different pieces of fabrics which all have a history – an old piece of clothing or a tablecloth that has a beautiful pattern and used to be someone’s favourite one in the past. 

Where do you get your materials and threads from?

For me it’s very important to care about nature and not waste anything. Instead of buying new, I aim to use second hand materials that already exist, simply by asking around or going to thrift stores, so far I have found some precious cotton and silk threads and fabrics. But sometimes when I am in rush for special projects, I go to the local shops. They usually have Anchor or DMC embroidery threads. I easily find wooden hoops, pens and needles in local stores too. I stock dozens when I visit my hometown in the south of Turkey.  If I don’t find what I am looking for in local shops I order online. Trying to order less online for the packaging waste, so this is the last option for me!

How do you start a new piece of work, what’s your design process?

My work process starts with a quick sketch that gradually evolves into a finished piece. Sometimes I just start to stitch on the fabric without even drawing, I continue to fill with improvisational stitches and it turns out so different and exciting! But lately I am more into studying paintings of my favourite artists like Matisse, Gaugin, Cocteau, just to name a few. And my sketchbook helps me out when I don’t have any ideas on what to stitch! 

Are you overwhelmed with designs and ideas or does it take time to find new embroideries to stitch?

I am always overwhelmed with my to do lists. My inspirations and references are all over the place but there is just not enough time in a day to complete them! 

Do you embroider for fun or is it a full time job?

I am so grateful that it is my full time job – I feel like I couldn’t be happier doing any other jobs I know. Maybe except panda sitting!

How do you find using Instagram? Do you ever worry your work will be copied? 

Well, Instagram is a great platform and it helped me a lot to grow, share and be inspired. I have found so many interesting embroidery artists and already met some of them in person. At the same time, I am trying to deconnect and spend more time and be efficient & make positive impact in real life. 

With regards to my work being copied, of course it is very nice to inspire people and I don’t mind if they are but only if they credit me; if not it’s a big shame. It takes long time to complete a handmade piece with so much love, and so much effort being put in the making process. So I hope that people would be more respectful about this. Recently I have encountered very inspired versions of my works but I guess this is also a good sign!

Do you ever feel nervous or anxious your followers won’t like your work?

I don’t mind if my followers don’t like it but of course it’s very nice to see when it’s appreciated. I draw curvy and chubby bodies to remind people of natural beauty; how amazing if this brings a positive impact on someone else’s life. 

Do you ever feel pressured to post images that you know will get lots of likes instead of simply posting what you like?

Not anymore, but before I used to. The posts might not be perfect and there might not be likes; this I don’t care, but, I want to make positive impact whatever I post. I belive that we all should work on making the world a better place. My goal is to share posts that encourage people about self-love, self-care, sustainability, climate change, animal rights etc. I wish to remind people what I think is important and beautiful and I don’t feel any pressure when I am sharing something. 

What do you love about embroidery?

Embroidery is such an intimate and personal yet very engaging activity. It is so meditative unlike anything else I know. I love that it is a great way to repair any holes, stains, unwanted logos etc. It is also such an expressive way of art as it is possible to combine different mediums on any fabric. I love that you can always undo and redo every step and it’s possible to invent practices, with different materials. Despite the fact that embroidery has always been attributed to the domestic roles of the ‘feminine’, nowadays there are many male embroiderers I follow. I am so glad when men come to my workshops! We are lucky to experience the break down of the gender roles.

Follow Uma here.